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Did you say tomato leaves ? YES ! Green tomatoes ? Why not ! Of course there are many other tomatoes that are more appropriate for purée, sauce & paste, but I couldn’t resist the vibrant green colour. The taste of the green tomatoes, whether as a purée, sauce or paste is quite different from red tomatoes, it’s fruitier with notes of pineapple and kiwi when it cooks longer and caramelizes ! Anyone who grows tomatoes knows that you have to pinch off those tomato plant branches with too many leaves and no blossoms on them, in order to allow the sap to go more directly to the actual tomato fruits and become bigger, juicier, tastier tomatoes ! The tomato leaves are extremely fragrant and I always regretted throwing them away, after crushing them in my hands and enjoying the fragrance ! Following some time spent researching the so-called toxicity of tomato leaves, I was happy and reassured to find out that not only were they not toxic but actually good for your cholesterol levels ! Anyways, this was somewhat experimental and educational … Understanding the difference between what you start off with (in weight) and what you end up with, after different stages of cooking (and baking) and also the differences in flavours between a slightly cooked purée which is fresh and fruity, a sauce, with more developed and warmer flavours and of course finally, the tomato paste which needs to be reduced in the oven at low heat and caramelizes to become something quite intense and sweet and powerful ! The aim here is to talk about preparing and combining these 3 distinct flavours, in different ways and ratios, to create the perfect sauce for warm or cold pasta, pizza, etc … Surprise, surprise concerning what you start off with and what you end up with. Here’s a quick lesson : 1kg of fresh tomatoes will give you about 750 grams of purée (75% of the original total) or 500 grams of sauce (50% of that 1kg) and only 50 grams in paste (5% of the original 1kg) …This is why this recipe requires 3kg of tomatoes, in order to make 250 grams of slightly-cooked purée, 500 grams of sauce and 50 grams of amazing tomato paste. Then you can recombine the 3 elements to create your own flavour combinations and levels of intensity ! So, are you going to give it a try ?! We’ll see... :)

green tomato & tomato leaf : purée, sauce and paste

20.08.2015

250 grams of purée / 500 grams of sauce / 50 grams of paste

ingredients

  • 3 kg fresh ripe green tomatoes
  • 2-3 handfuls fresh tomato leaves and stalks (approximately 50-75 grams)
  • 1-2 onions (125-175 grams)
  • 2-4 cloves of garlic (6-10 grams)
  • 3 stalks of fresh basil leaves (optional : some fresh oregano)
  • 2 tbsp sea salt
  • 4-5 tbsp olive oil
  • 2 tbsp lemon juice

instructions

  • prepare a large casserole add the roughly chopped tomatoes (remove nothing and keep seeds, skins, peduncles and stalks if any) and add 2/3 of your tomatoes leaves (with the stalks/branches)
  • on high heat, bring to a boil and then lower heat to medium and simmer for 10 minutes until the tomatoes have softened and released some of their liquid
  • remove from heat and let cool before beginning to extract the purée
  • using a food mill (or a large sieve), extract the thick purée and try to discard most of the remaining solids (seeds, skins, leaves, branches) and squeeze well to retrieve all juices
  • *now, you probably have 2,250 kg of purée from the initial 3 kg of fresh tomatoes
  • reserve around 250 grams of purée, add at least ¼ tsp of salt and ½ tsp of lemon juice and reserve in the refrigerator in a sealed container
  • with the remaining 2 kg of purée, divide in two, 1 kg to make the sauce the sauce and 1 kg for the paste
  • to make the purée for the paste very smooth, refilter the 1 kg of purée through a sieve to remove any stray seeds and solids
  • preheat your oven to 140°C and brush some olive oil in a shallow and large baking dish (or several smaller baking dishes)
  • place 1 kg of purée in a thin layer in the baking dishes and bake at low heat for 2 – 2 ½ hours, stirring every 15 minutes as it thickens
  • meanwhile, reheat the other 1 kg of purée at medium-heat, in a large saucepan with 2 tbsp of olive oil until it begins to simmer gently
  • chop your onions and garlic in half and add to the simmering tomato purée (cut-side down) and simmer for 15 minutes, then add the remaining 1/3 of fresh tomato leaves again and fresh basil leaves and cook for another 5 minutes (total cooking time 20 minutes)
  • remove from heat, let cool and remove the cut onions and garlic halves and leaves and add 1 tbsp salt (to taste) and 1 tbsp of lemon juice and drizzle with 1-2 tbsp of uncooked olive oil
  • **if u want extra onion & garlic taste, you could also crush the cooked onions and garlic (at the end of the simmering time) with a food mill and keep them in the sauce or right at the beginning, dice and slightly fry the onions and garlic in 2 tbsp of olive oil (for a sweeter taste) and then add the purée and simmer for 15 minutes and then add the tomato leaves and basil and simmer for another 5 minutes !
  • back to the tomato paste that is baking and reducing in the oven : keep stirring every 15 minutes and bake until more compact, darker, shinier and thick
  • remove from the oven, then transfer to a small container and add salt (1/4 tsp) and a squeeze of lemon juice (1/4 tsp) and some olive oil (1/4 tsp) and let cool
  • store tomato purée, sauce and paste in air-tight containers in the refrigerator
  • ***to prepare a pizza or pasta sauce, combine the 3 different elements according to your taste and slightly reheat, adding aditional salt, spices, olive oil and fresh herbs if necessary
  • ****my suggestion : to benefit from the intensity and complexity of flavours of each, I recombine them when needed. Cold pasta salad is great with a fresher fruitier sauce, warm pasta with a more developed sauce and pizza with a more intense and drier and compact sauce … for example : for cold pasta combine 1 cup of cooked tomato sauce with 1/2 cup of purée and 1/2 tbsp of tomato paste, for warm pasta combine 1 cup of sauce with ¼ cup of purée and 1 tbsp of paste and for pizza combine 1 cup of sauce with 2 tbsp of paste !