3 oven semi-dried vegetables & their 3 spreads : green peppers & red tomatoes & white mushrooms3 oven semi-dried vegetables & their 3 spreads : green peppers & red tomatoes & white mushrooms3 oven semi-dried vegetables & their 3 spreads : green peppers & red tomatoes & white mushrooms3 oven semi-dried vegetables & their 3 spreads : green peppers & red tomatoes & white mushrooms3 oven semi-dried vegetables & their 3 spreads : green peppers & red tomatoes & white mushrooms3 oven semi-dried vegetables & their 3 spreads : green peppers & red tomatoes & white mushrooms3 oven semi-dried vegetables & their 3 spreads : green peppers & red tomatoes & white mushrooms3 oven semi-dried vegetables & their 3 spreads : green peppers & red tomatoes & white mushrooms3 oven semi-dried vegetables & their 3 spreads : green peppers & red tomatoes & white mushrooms3 oven semi-dried vegetables & their 3 spreads : green peppers & red tomatoes & white mushrooms3 oven semi-dried vegetables & their 3 spreads : green peppers & red tomatoes & white mushrooms3 oven semi-dried vegetables & their 3 spreads : green peppers & red tomatoes & white mushrooms3 oven semi-dried vegetables & their 3 spreads : green peppers & red tomatoes & white mushrooms3 oven semi-dried vegetables & their 3 spreads : green peppers & red tomatoes & white mushrooms3 oven semi-dried vegetables & their 3 spreads : green peppers & red tomatoes & white mushrooms3 oven semi-dried vegetables & their 3 spreads : green peppers & red tomatoes & white mushrooms3 oven semi-dried vegetables & their 3 spreads : green peppers & red tomatoes & white mushrooms3 oven semi-dried vegetables & their 3 spreads : green peppers & red tomatoes & white mushrooms3 oven semi-dried vegetables & their 3 spreads : green peppers & red tomatoes & white mushrooms3 oven semi-dried vegetables & their 3 spreads : green peppers & red tomatoes & white mushrooms3 oven semi-dried vegetables & their 3 spreads : green peppers & red tomatoes & white mushrooms3 oven semi-dried vegetables & their 3 spreads : green peppers & red tomatoes & white mushrooms3 oven semi-dried vegetables & their 3 spreads : green peppers & red tomatoes & white mushrooms

It’s officially the END OF SUMMER & the BEGINNING OF AUTUMN. It’s the end of some things that you will miss and the beginning of other things to look forward to. It’s okay to miss things and to want them back. It’s okay to not have them and wait for their return. It’s okay to pursue new things and put the past behind you. It’s okay to find solutions so the waiting becomes bearable. It’s okay to adapt to what you can’t change and to transform what you presently have. People often say that one year goes by quickly. What can you do in the meantime ? How was your summer ?

In Montreal (and other cosmopolitan cities with a wonderful mix of cultures, ethnicities and origins) and in particular in neigborhoods like Little Italy, the lucky inhabitants who happen to have a large terrace, sun-dry their vegetables outside. For the more dense and over-populated cities like Paris with little balconies, small and often non-existent terraces and rarely any gardens at all, this is not an option; but we do have OVENS.

This is my ritual once a year every September. I pick my favorite fruits and vegetables that I’ll preserve and use during the colder seasons : sweet green ‘cubanelle’ peppers, red ‘plum tomatoes’ and white ‘portobello’ mushrooms (which also happen to be my favorite toppings for my montreal-style all-dressed pizza and you can see that recipe here). 

Of course I’m totally aware that sun-dried tomatoes (completely dried or packed in oil) and mushrooms (fresh or dried) are easily available all-year long but I doubt you’ll find semi-dried green peppers as easily. Anyways, when given the choice between buying something prepared and time-saving or doing it all myself, I’ll always pick the latter. And then come these flavorful “spreads” sometimes also called “tapenades” or often “caviars” in France, because there are no olives in them.

Over the years, I’ve adapted and modified my approach as well as how much I will semi-dry the things I like to have all winter long. The answer is 25% of their original weight (after the cleaning, slicing, de-seeding, de-veining but before the vinegaring, salting, sugaring). This means that for every 1 kilogram of fresh, prepared, cleaned and sliced produce to be dried, I’ll end up with a total of 250 grams, thus not entirely dried nor semi-dried but actually quarter-dried. Like I said : 25% (but up to 33% is okay too).

An interesting (and obvious) point is that smaller things will dry quicker than larger things, which is why this year, I’ve chosen to oven-dry tomatoes and mushrooms that are quartered and long peppers cut into eighths but sometimes I do both if I want to oil-pack the larger pieces and reduce the smaller pieces into a coarse purée to make the spreads. 

Another interesting point is that spraying the vegetables to be oven-dried with white wine vinegar or white distilled vinegar, then tossing them with some salt and a touch of sugar and then letting them sit and strain for approximately 15-45 minutes will help to remove part of that water in the vegetables and speed up the whole process by at least half, in addition to deepening the flavors.

A final point (and one that I consider paramount and quite time-saving) is to record the weights of the oven drying racks that you will be using and to record the weight of each rack with the vegetable slices on top so as to monitor the progression of the drying and remaining humidity in the vegetables every hour at the beginning and middle of the drying process and every 30 minutes towards the end. This makes the entire process much easier and quicker, as opposed to emptying out the partly-dried vegetable slices into a bowl to weigh them and then laying them back onto each oven rack to dry them further ! Trust me, a seemingly painful and time-consuming task has just gotten much easier and painless !

Three options actually exist … 1st option : you can completely dry them out and store them in bags or jars, to be re-hydrated later depending on your intended uses; 2nd   option : you can semi-dry or quarter-dry them and preserve them in flavored oil and finally the 3rd option : you can use those semi or quarter-dried vegetables and blend or process them with other ingredients until smoother and heat them up again and preserve them to have an easy vegetable spread for diverse uses that will last up to 1 year (or longer if done correctly). Be reassured, I’ve tried and tested everything over the past 3 years which is why I’m sharing this with you now.

There’s no reason why you shouldn’t attempt this with other types of vegetables. And if you do and it’s great, drop me a line because I’ve heard somewhere that “sharing is caring”. 

Happy SUMMER’S end & beginning of AUTUMN to all . . . :)

3 oven semi-dried vegetables & their 3 spreads : green peppers & red tomatoes & white mushrooms

22.09.2018

3 x 360 - 400 grams (1½ cups) each

ingredients

*amounts required for each 250 grams of semi-dried vegetables :

sweet peppers

  • 1,25 kg (approximately 10 long) whole “cubanelle” sweet green peppers (to be reduced to 1 kg total after they are sliced, de-seeded, de-veined and each pepper cut into 8 equal pieces each for a total of 80 pieces, weighing approximately 12,5 grams each)
  • 1 ½ tbsp white vinegar
  • 1 ½ tsp fine sea salt
  • ½ tsp granulated sugar

tomatoes

  • 2 kg (approximately 25 medium) whole red ‘plum’ tomatoes (to be reduced to 1 kg total after de-seeded, the white parts near the stems removed and each sliced in 4 quarters for a total number of 100 pieces, weighing approximately 10 grams each) 
  • 1 ½ tbsp white vinegar
  • 1 ½ tsp fine sea salt
  • ½ tsp granulated sugar

mushrooms

  • 1,5 kg (about 32 large) white “portobello” mushrooms (to be reduced to 1 kg total after the stems are removed and then each is sliced into 4 quarters for a total of 128 pieces, weighing approximately 8 grams each)
  • 1 ½ tbsp white vinegar
  • 1 ½ tsp fine sea salt
  • ½ tsp granulated sugar

basic oil-packed preserving mixture for each :

  • 180-240 ml (¾ cup – 1 cup) extra virgin olive oil
  • 5 ml (1 tsp) white wine vinegar (or lemon juice)
  • 2 grams (1 small) garlic clove
  • 2 whole bay leaves (fresh or dried)
  • 5 grams (1 tsp) fine sea salt
  • 0,5 gram (¼ tsp) whole peppercorns
  • optional : 0,5 gram (½ tsp) dried mixed herbs (like ‘herbes de provence’)
  • optional : 2 grams (1 whole) salted anchovy

basic spread mixture for each :

  • 250 grams oven-dried vegetable slices
  • 90-120 ml (6-8 tbsp) extra virgin olive oil (start with 6 tbsp and then add up to 30 ml/2 tbsp more if necessary)
  • 15 ml (1 tbsp) lemon juice
  • 15 ml (1 tbsp) white wine vinegar
  • 7,5 grams (1 ½ tsp) fine sea salt
  • 2,5 grams (½ tsp) sugar
  • 1 gram (¼ tsp) crushed garlic
  • 0,5 gram (¼ tsp) ground peppercorns
  • 2 whole bay leaves
  • optional : 0,25 gram (¼ tsp) dried (or 2,5 grams / 1 tbsp fresh) flat-leaf parsley leaves and/or other fresh herbs
  • optional : 2 grams (1 whole) salted anchovy

optional additions (for oil-packed or spread mixture versions):

for the sweet peppers :

  • 0,25 gram (¼ tsp) dried (or 1 tbsp / 2,5 grams fresh) oregano leaves
  • 2 grams (½ tsp) chopped capers

for the tomatoes :

  • 0,5 gram (¼ tsp) whole or crushed fennel seeds
  • 0,5 gram (¼ tsp) whole or crushed coriander seeds
  • 0,25 gram (¼ tsp) dried (or 2,5 grams / 1 tbsp fresh) basil and/or oregano

for the mushrooms :

  • 0,25 gram (¼ tsp) dried (or 2,5 grams / 1 tbsp fresh) thyme leaves
  • 0,25 gram (¼ tsp) dried (or 2,5 grams / 1 tbsp fresh) sage leaves

instructions

*for each batch of 1 kg of fresh prepared vegetables to become 250 grams of quarter-dried vegetables :

  • 1 hour before ready to oven-dry, prepare (wash, de-seed, de-vein, remove stems, etc.) and slice into equal-sized halves, quarters or eighths 
  • note : if you slice the plum tomatoes and mushrooms in halves instead of quarters and the peppers in quarters as opposed to eighths, the oven-drying time will be at least 25% - 50% longer …
  • spray the vegetable slices with the vinegar and then toss with the salt and sugar (or melt the salt and sugar in the vinegar beforehand and simply spray the mixture all over the vegetable slices) and let sit in a colander to strain for 10 minutes (for the tomatoes) or 30 minutes (for the mushrooms) or 45 minutes (for the peppers), then pat-dry very well
  • prepare 2 full-sized oven racks to partly-dry the vegetable slices and weigh each rack and note the weights of each 
  • preheat the oven to 75°C
  • note : if you begin with 1 kg of vegetable slices, then the resulting weight when fully quarter-dried should be equal to 250 grams …
  • lay out the vegetable slices on each rack, slightly spaced apart and weigh the rack with the vegetable slices on top and write it all down
  • place the drying racks in the oven (you’ll need 2 full racks), leave the oven door slightly ajar (about 1 cm with a wooden spoon or anything else to allow the water vapor to escape) and let oven-dry for 1 hour at a time before rotating the racks (back to front) and re-weighing the total weights of the racks with the vegetable slices on top to verify how much more time will be necessary to continue drying and decrease the weight to slightly above 250 grams but ideally 275 grams
  • remove the oven-dried vegetables from the oven when the weight has decreased to 275 grams (after subtracting the weight of the oven rack) and let cool down
  • note : the final weight of the oven-dried vegetable slices, when removed from the oven, will continue to slightly decrease when cooling down because the residual heat will continue to dry them and decrease the weight by approximately an additional 9%-10% or 20-25 grams less)
  • note : my newer experiments (by reducing the sizes of the slices and tossing them with vinegar, salt and sugar before going into the oven) have resulted in these reduced approximate oven or quarter-drying times; approximately 5-5 ½ hours for the tomato quarter slices (instead of 12 hours last year), 4 ½-5 hours for the long pepper slices (instead of 11 hours last year) and 3 hours for the mushroom quarter slices (instead of 6 hours last year) but please weigh the slices on the racks every 60 minutes to be sure until reduced enough and ready to be removed from the oven …
  • wash and then sterilize the preserving jars and lids in a hot 200°C oven for 10-15 minutes and then keep warm in a turned-off oven
  • if simply preserving the vegetables in oil, place all the solid ingredients and spices in the bottom of each warm jar, add the vinegar and/or lemon juice, add the vegetable slices, tightly pack and then pour the olive oil on top until well covered, close with the lids and store in the refrigerator for several days for the flavors to develop before opening and store up to 6 months after opening
  • if making the spreads, combine all the ingredients together in a food processor until smoother (except for the bay leaves), transfer everything to a cooking pot (add the bay leaves now) and heat up while stirring at medium heat for 5 minutes until the first bubbles appear on the surface, reduce heat to low and let simmer and stir for another 2-3  minutes, remove the bay leaves and then transfer the mixture to the still warm jars, close with the lids, turn upside down and let cool down completely before turning upright and store in the refrigerator for up to 1 year 
  • note : after opening the jars and using part of the spread, simply pour some oil on top to of the remaining spread until well covered to avoid oxidation and/or the development of mold on the surface …