roast pork (or veal) in milk & sage with baby potatoes & pearl onionsroast pork (or veal) in milk & sage with baby potatoes & pearl onionsroast pork (or veal) in milk & sage with baby potatoes & pearl onionsroast pork (or veal) in milk & sage with baby potatoes & pearl onionsroast pork (or veal) in milk & sage with baby potatoes & pearl onionsroast pork (or veal) in milk & sage with baby potatoes & pearl onionsroast pork (or veal) in milk & sage with baby potatoes & pearl onionsroast pork (or veal) in milk & sage with baby potatoes & pearl onionsroast pork (or veal) in milk & sage with baby potatoes & pearl onionsroast pork (or veal) in milk & sage with baby potatoes & pearl onionsroast pork (or veal) in milk & sage with baby potatoes & pearl onionsroast pork (or veal) in milk & sage with baby potatoes & pearl onionsroast pork (or veal) in milk & sage with baby potatoes & pearl onionsroast pork (or veal) in milk & sage with baby potatoes & pearl onions

This weekend on SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 11th 2018 is the 100th Anniversary (the Centenary or Centennial) of the ARMISTICE or End of the First World War. Sixty heads of State and 120 dignitaries will be in Paris for an international ceremony to commemorate the event, to celebrate the peace and the end of that war, even though other wars, instability and issues around the world still rage on. Historical reminders are necessary and important, because the First World War wasn’t enough (as we all know) to tame the more belligerent hearts, which lead to an even deadlier part 2, 30 years later, called the Second World War. The Paris Peace Forum will also be taking place on Sunday until Tuesday, which is not a commemorative event of the past but a reflection on preventive measures for promoting peace, improving governance and managing crises today and in the future. I’m glad to be attending of course.

I'm in Strasbourg today, a French city right on the border of Germany, in the most eastern part of France and northwards. The city has oscillated between being German and French countless times, but in appearance it’s both of these countries. It’s France’s 2nd international capital after Paris with a great number of international and European institutions. 

They really like their pork (and some veal) in that region, in various shapes and sizes and in a great number of dishes. Cooked pork, cured pork, cold cuts, sausages, etc.. They also love the Christmas holidays, which are still far away but the world-famous Christmas Market begins there in 2 weeks on November 23rd and lasts until New Year’s Eve. I wish I could have been there 2 weeks later and not yesterday. I’m feeling particularly “Christmassy” this year. 

This dish is not particularly French nor German nor very Mediterranean either but rather northern Italian, closer to the borders of both Switzerland and Austria (which are right under Germany). The Franco-German friendship after the World Wars, lead to the creation of the European Union and includes 28 member states today. We’re all allies now !

I like to imagine that this simple dish would have been a comfort to the fighting soldiers, the healing doctors and nurses and all the others who directly participated in both of those terrible wars. I also have a thought for those back home, preparing the dish while waiting/hoping for their loved ones to come back home, safe and sound. 

Let’s make something tender, juicy and delicately flavored that’s not too complicated nor sophisticated either and let’s take our time making it slowly, while we remember and reflect on the past. It’s a traditional dish about warmth, reassurance and comfort and shouldn’t be rushed nor made too complicated.  

My method is to first sear both the meat and vegetables, at high heat, then to tenderize and mellow everything out in gently simmering milk with sweet aromatics like sage leaves, over several hours and at low heat. I also give everything a quick broil and then keep it all warm in the oven in a covered casserole as the reduced milk-sauce is being prepared. It can be made a day head, and the meat and vegetables warmed up in the oven in a covered casserole and the sauce warmed up separately on the stovetop until serving time.

note : I’ve given you the recipe for a 1 kg roast even though I sometimes get a 750 gram roast and sometimes a 1,5 kg roast but it’s easier to scale up or scale down with a recipe for 1 kg. You should always try to have around two-thirds of the total weight of the roast in vegetables and enough milk to almost cover everything. In the end, the pork roast will shrink as it cooks and you’ll end up with equal parts of meat and vegetables ...

It’s warming, fragrant and savory, but with undertones of sweetness. It’s a dish for the tired and the hungry and the ones you care for and would like to shield from the world’s harshness.

I wish it would start snowing right at this very instant. A blanket of pure white to mask the mistakes of the past. Snow melts, flowers grow back in the spring . . . :)

roast pork (or veal) in milk & sage with baby potatoes & pearl onions

09.11.2018

4

ingredients

*if you do not consume pork, try it with veal

meat & vegetables :

  • 1 kg boneless pork loin (or veal) roast (tied up with twine)
  • 330 grams (12-15) baby potatoes (with skins on)
  • 330 grams (12-15) small or pearl onions (after peeling)
  • 35 grams (1 short) celery stalk
  • optional : 5 grams (1) garlic clove (kept whole)
  • 45 grams (3 tbsp) butter
  • 45 ml (3 tbsp) olive oil
  • 20 grams (4 tsp) tsp sea salt (divided in 2 tsp + 2 tsp)
  • 2 grams (1 tsp) ground pepper (divided in ½ tsp + ½ tsp)
  • 0,5 gram (¼ tsp) crushed pink peppercorns
  • 0,5 gram (¼ tsp) fennel seeds (whole or crushed)
  • 2,5 grams (1 ½ tbsp) dried sage
  • 2 grams (3 large) fresh bay leaves
  • 3 grams (12 whole) fresh sage leaves
  • 5 grams (2 stalks) fresh flat-leaf parsley
  • 1 liter (4 cups) whole milk (or a mix with 500 ml (2 cups) whole milk + 500 ml (2 cups) evaporated milk)

cream-sauce :

  • 500 ml  (2 cups) strained & filtered milk (from the roast & vegetables)
  • 45-60 ml (3-4 tbsp) heavy cream
  • 30 grams (2 tbsp) butter
  • 15 grams (2 tbsp) flour

garnish :

  • 4-8 fresh sage leaves

instructions

  • rub the pork or veal roast with the 2 tsp salt and the ½ tsp ground peppercorns
  • heat up the olive oil and butter in a large casserole until hot
  • sear the meat for 5 minutes on all sides and both ends at high heat then remove from the casserole
  • toss the potatoes and onions with the salt and pepper and sear for 3 minutes and then remove them from the casserole
  • place the roast in the middle, surround it with the potatoes and only 1 or 2 onions (and the garlic clove if using it), sprinkle with the additional dried and fresh herbs and spices and milk (add more milk if necessary to almost cover everything) and bring to a boil and let simmer for 5 minutes, then reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer very gently (with a cover) for 45-60 minutes, then add the rest of the peeled and whole onions (to avoid reducing the onions to a soft mash) and let everything simmer for an additional 45-60 minutes without a cover 
  • remove from the heat, remove the roast, and vegetables from the casserole and transfer to a  large baking dish and broil at 230°C for 5 minutes until golden and browned, then remove from the oven and reserve in the baking dish
  • gently boil/simmer down the remaining milk and juices until reduced to almost half (about 15-30 minutes), then filter and strain the remaining milk and juices and remove all remaining solids, herbs, small pieces of broken onions or potatoes (you can also use a food mill to press and crush the solids and extract all juices), then transfer the liquid to a bowl and add some cream, mix and reserve
  • transfer the roast and vegetables to the large casserole with a cover and keep warm in a pre-heated oven at 180°C (while you prepare the cream-sauce
  • to make a thicker sauce, heat up the butter in a small casserole then right before it starts browning, whisk in the flour and when smooth (like a lighter version of a ‘roux’) finally add the milk and cream mixture and cook at medium heat and whisk until thickened and smooth, adjust to your taste with more salt and/or pepper
  • serve the warm roast and vegetables, cut into thin slices, with the warm cream-sauce or gravy and add a few extra fresh sage leaves on top.