the freshest hand-crushed & no-cook heirloom tomato sauce and/or spreadthe freshest hand-crushed & no-cook heirloom tomato sauce and/or spreadthe freshest hand-crushed & no-cook heirloom tomato sauce and/or spreadthe freshest hand-crushed & no-cook heirloom tomato sauce and/or spreadthe freshest hand-crushed & no-cook heirloom tomato sauce and/or spreadthe freshest hand-crushed & no-cook heirloom tomato sauce and/or spreadthe freshest hand-crushed & no-cook heirloom tomato sauce and/or spreadthe freshest hand-crushed & no-cook heirloom tomato sauce and/or spreadthe freshest hand-crushed & no-cook heirloom tomato sauce and/or spreadthe freshest hand-crushed & no-cook heirloom tomato sauce and/or spreadthe freshest hand-crushed & no-cook heirloom tomato sauce and/or spreadthe freshest hand-crushed & no-cook heirloom tomato sauce and/or spreadthe freshest hand-crushed & no-cook heirloom tomato sauce and/or spreadthe freshest hand-crushed & no-cook heirloom tomato sauce and/or spreadthe freshest hand-crushed & no-cook heirloom tomato sauce and/or spread

PART 1 (of a summer mini-series) of 3 episodes ! ... Here’s a story about how refreshing and surprisingly vibrant RAW & UNCOOKED (and yet still slightly prepared) FRESH & RIPE HEIRLOOM TOMATOES can be and how you can accentuate these same flavors and prepare them without cooking (I mean without applying heat) during a period of the year where HEAT WAVES seem to come and go more often.  

And there will be very practical & useful "extras" in addition to the tomato sauce & spread : the "tomato waters" ...

Yeah, the HEAT WAVES. Even though we don’t have air-conditioning nor electric fans in our place (because we don’t want any of that extra stuff), we don’t have a single problem with the heat waves we’ve been having. We actually welcome the heat and the sun with open arms, remaining scantily-clad (because we’re not working this month), with fully open windows and doors to create a draft, taking multiple cold showers during the day, then drying off on the terrace and enjoying the slow pace of these sunny heart and body-warming days with colder and/or barely cooked foods and chilled drinks. It’s like being on vacation before actually, physically and officially going on a vacation. 

We enjoy the city’s peacefulness and its emptiness, especially from mid-July to mid-August. We stay in the city when most people (including our friends & neighbors) are away on vacation. We only decide to physically and geographically escape the city when the vacationers all come back around the third week of August, as they’re still reminiscing but also grunting and grumbling that it’s all over. Our vacation calmly and uneventfully begins at home with their absence and then continues with a change of scenery and a hop onto a plane upon their return. This is how we plan things so as to be surrounded by good vibes all the time and we’ll obviously have to take off soon because they’re all coming back soon. But we’ll be equally happy to be back in mid-September after all that ! Are we wrong ?!

Back to the FOOD.

What have I DONE here ? Or to be more precise, what have I NOT DONE here ? Well, I haven’t cooked all these ingredients into “submission” but actually allowed them to become a harmony of flavors, accentuating and tweaking them into a symphony, with SIMPLICITY and ZENITUDE !

Try to imagine fresh heirloom tomatoes, so ripe or preferably over-ripe, that you can literally squish and crush them with your hands (no cutting tools required), saving every drop of juice and even the seeds, and then straining them into 2 equal volumes and weights of liquids and solids, combining everything with some acidic components like some apple cider vinegar and lemon juice, sea salt and a touch of cane sugar (to counterbalance the acidity), to ultimately draw out, deepen, accentuate and add even more vibrancy to their flavors. 

You can actually just stop here because the taste is already fantastic but I continue and also add a variety of fresh herbs and vegetables (the leaves & stems & stalks too) and other elements like sliced or grated garlic and onion or shallot to complexify (is that a real word ?) the whole thing while the ingredients just sit there overnight in a jar, communicating, slowly mingling and getting acquainted, infusing their essences together overnight like long-lost lovers.

But, at some point, a separation must occur, usually in the morning or on the next day. The fleshy solids must be separated from the other plant & vegetables elements like the tougher stems and leaves and the onion and garlic (if you’ve only sliced them but you can crush or grate them later and add them back in for more flavor). This forced separation will not become an issue of  abandonment because the fleshy tomato solids retain the memory of the “others” and their “time spent together” and have been made “better & improved”. The “complementarity” and “complicity” of their union continues and survives. And let's not forget that the strained "tomato waters" can & will be useful !

The main elements here are the fleshy solids that will become the sauce and/or spread but the 2 liquids (or tomato waters) will also be used to replace and enhance other ingredients in other preparations, but I’ll show you all that in the next 2 recipes soon. 

NOTE : the prepared sauce could be used as is (500 grams) or strained to 70% of its initial weight (350 grams) as a fresh light sauce for pasta dishes but it could be strained even further to 50% of its initial weight (250 grams) for a sauce on roasted or grilled meats & fish but could also strained up to 35% maximum of its initial weight (175 grams) to become a much denser spread-sauce to be used ideally on grilled breads and pizzas !

But even as I’m telling you all of this, I’m working on the 2 other easy recipes using this preparation and coming very soon because I’ll be leaving on vacation too and would like to publish all this before going away. But those recipes will be parts 2 & 3 of this mini-series.

As you all well know, I waste nothing and I like to “multitask” ! You get it ? Anyways, it’s all about those accentuated tomato flavors and what you can do with them. 

End of part 1 of this mini-series. Parts 2 & 3 are coming in the next few days or a week, who knows, it's summer ?! . . . :)

the freshest hand-crushed & no-cook heirloom tomato sauce and/or spread

15.08.2018

175 grams spread + 825 ml flavored waters or 250 grams of sauce + 750 ml flavoured waters or up to 500 grams light sauce + 500 ml flavored waters

ingredients

  • 1 kg hand-crushed ultra-ripe whole heirloom tomatoes (tougher stem ends and peduncles removed before and then separated into 2 equal volumes or weights of liquids and solids)

to add to the 500 grams of crushed tomato flesh (solids) :

  • 15 ml (1 tbsp) apple cider vinegar
  • 15 ml (1 tbsp) lemon juice 
  • 15 grams (1 tbsp) sea salt
  • 7,5 grams (1 ½ tsp) golden cane sugar
  • 20 grams (1 ½ tbsp) sliced (or grated afterwards) spring onion (or shallot)
  • 5 grams (1 tsp) sliced (or crushed afterwards) garlic
  • 2-3 bay leaves
  • 2,5 grams fresh basil (10 leaves with stems)
  • 2,5 grams fresh flat-leaf parsley (20 leaves with stems)
  • 2,5 grams fresh oregano (40 leaves with stems)
  • 1 gram (¼ tsp) ground peppercorns
  • optional : 5 grams (2 medium) tomato plant branches (10 leaves with stems)
  • optional : 3 carrot fronds + 3 celery leaves + 3 fennel fronds 
  • optional (to replace the carrot, fennel and celery leaves & fronds) : 1/8 tsp each of celery seeds + crushed fennel seeds + crushed coriander seeds 

to add to the marinated fleshy tomato solids after 12-24 hours :

  • 30 ml – 60 ml (2-4 tbsp) extra virgin olive oil (depending on if it is further strained & denser)

to add to the 1st or initial 500 ml of strained tomato water (the liquids) :

  • 5 ml (1 tsp) apple cider vinegar
  • 5 ml (1 tsp) lemon juice
  • 5 grams (1 tsp) sea salt
  • 2,5 grams (½ tsp) golden can sugar

instructions

  • crush and squish the tomatoes with your hands and remove any tougher & harder bits you can feel and save every drop of juice and keep the seeds too
  • strain the mixture right after crushing everything into 2 equal volumes and weights
  • note : when you strain the liquids from the solids almost completely or to its maximum, you will end up with 1/4 or up to 1/3 solids and 2/3 or up to 3/4 in liquids but you don’t need to go that far, separating in half (1/2) as solids and half (1/2) as liquids is perfect for this recipe and we'll adjust later ...
  • add the apple cider vinegar and lemon juice, salt and sugar and mix to both the mixtures, then add the garlic and spring onion (or shallot) and the rest of the spices and herbs (do the best that you can to get everything) to the fleshy solids mixture and combine
  • transfer to 2 large closed jars & let infuse for 12 hours minimum or 24 hours maximum at room temperature (but it can sit in the refrigerator for several days too)
  • remove all the leaves, stalks, garlic and onion slices (if sliced and not crushed and/or grated) from the fleshy solids, add the olive oil and taste, if it needs more garlic and onion, chop them up much finer (if you didn’t crush them or grate them in the beginning) and add them back in with the solids and/or add some extra fresher herbs too and mix (if you like, you can also strain it a bit for a denser & thicker sauce)
  • add the macerated leaves and stems back into the 2nd tomato water to deepen the flavors and to be used later for other preparations
  • transfer the sauce and the 2nd tomato water to 2 separate jars and reserve in the refrigerator until ready to use (up to 2-3 days in the refrigerator)
  • note : the prepared sauce could be used as is (500 grams) or strained to 70% of its initial weight (350 grams) as a fresh light sauce for pasta dishes but it could be strained even further to 50% of its initial weight (250 grams) for a sauce on roasted or grilled meats & fish but could also strained up to 35% maximum of its initial weight (175 grams) to become a much denser spread-sauce to be used ideally on grilled breads and pizzas !
  • you can use both the liquids (tomato waters) to replace the water in other recipes; the 1st lighter water could be used to replace the water in doughs or for boiling pasta & vegetables and the 2nd more flavored & stronger water could be used in broths, soups and sauces, but I’ll have several new recipes for you in the next week or so, that use the prepared tomato mixtures !
  • note : you can also do all of this using 1 kg of good quality crushed tomatoes in cans but the taste will be much less fresh and vibrant !